Improvement in machines for cutting out garments



2 Sheets--Sheet 1.

l. L'. FRY.

Machine for' Cutting out Garments.

Patented Sept. 21,1875.

.. L T... .i vn l A r l/ Wir/7165665,

2 S-heetsf-Sheet 2Q l. L. FRY. Machine for Cutting outarments. N0 58,011. PatentedSept.21,l875.

N. PETERS. PHOTO-LITHUGRAPNEH v/ASH NGTON D C JOHN L. FRY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF HIS RIGHT TO JEROME KEELEY, OF SAME PLAGE.

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR CUTTING OUT GARMENTS.

Specication forming part of Letters Patent No. l6.0l1, dated September 2l, 1875; application filed June 28, 1575.

To all whom t may concer-n:

Be it known that I, JOHN L. FRY, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented a Machine for Cutting Out Articles of Clothing, dtc., of which the following is a specification:

The object of my invention is to rapidly and accurately cut from one or more Webs of cloth pieces of proper shape to form parts of different articles of clothing; and this object I at tain in the manner which I will now proceed to describe, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which- Figure l, Sheet l, is a vertical section of my im proved cloth-cutting machine; Fig. 2, a plan view of the cutting-cylinder, drawn to a reduced scale; and Figs. 3, 4, and 5, Sheet 2, detached views, drawn to an enlarged scale,

illustrating dilit'erent features of my invention.

The machine has two opposite frames, in bearings in which turnthe shafts of two cylin ders, B and D, arranged one above the other, the bearin gs of the lower cylinder D being xed, but those of the upper cylinder B being adjustable vertically, so that it may act under more or less pressure against the lower cylinder, to the shaft of which power is applied, the upper cylinder being revolved bythe said cylinder D through the medium oftwo rubbercoated rings, F F, shown in Fig. 2. Each of the cylinders consists, in the present instance, of a hollow shell of cast-iron, and to the surface of the upper cylinder B are secured, in the manner described hereafter, a number of sets 0f cu ttin g-knives, ct, the cuttin g-ed ges of which are arranged to correspond in shape with that of different parts of an article of dress which has to be cut from a web of cloth. The lower cylinder D carries a number of wooden blocks, b, placed closely together, and so arranged as to present the end grain of the blocks to the cutting-edges of the knives on the cylinder B.

l/Rawhide or other suitable material for resisting the action ofthe knives without damaging their cutting-edges may be substituted for the Wooden blocks. At one side of the machine are arranged two rollers, E E, round each of which is coiled a web, a', of cloth, the two webs passing from the rollers, first around stretching-bars d d, and thence between a pair of feed-rolls, e e, and over a plate, f, t0 the cutting-cylinder. The feed-rolls e e are revolved,

in the present instance, by the cylinder D, through the medium of the intervening friction-wheel g; but other means of operating them may be employed, care being taken that the speed of the feed-rolls in relation to that of thecylinders B and D is so regulated that the cloth will be delivered in an even and smooth condition. After being acted upon by the knives of the cylinder B the severed piece vof cloth is received by a plate, j", and passes over the same and over a roller, h, onto an apron, i, of muslin or other suitable fabric, which is drawn from a roll, el', the severed piece being carried by and wound with the apron around a cylinder,4 (see Fig. 3,) which turns in bearings in the frame of the machine, and can rise vertically as it increases in diameter. The cylinder j is revolved, in the present instance, by means ofa cylinder, j', on which the cylinderj rests, the latter cylinder being in turn revolved by a friction-wheel, k, which receives its motion from the cylinder D. v

By thus winding the pieces of cloth with an apron of muslin or other light fabric around the cylinder, the successive layers of cloth are separated from each other, and prevented from becoming entangled, the cylinder, when lled, being removed from its bearings, and the apron unrolled onto a suitable table. l

The manner of securing the knives t0 the surface of the cylinder B will be best observedv in Figs. 4 and 5, Sheet 2, in which'm m repreto the shape of the pieces to be cut. When these angular plates have been secured to the cylinder the knives a are so secured to them that their cuttingedges shall project beyond the said angular plates to a limited extent.

An important feature of my invention, as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 4, consistsin arranging inside of and near to the edge of the knives, blocks H, of rubber, which serve to press upon and hold the cloth rmly While it is being out, and to cause it to free itself' from the knives as the latter leave the cloth. These blocks of rubber may be arranged adjacent to the knives, as shown at the left-hand side, Fig. 4,

or may completely fill the space within the knives', as shown at the right-hand side of that ligure. By thus constructing the angular plates and cutting-knives in sections changes in the size of the pattern can be readily effected; changes in width by separating the former and inserting an extra piece or pieces, as shown in Fig. 5, and changes in length by elevating the knives until the circumference of the cutting-edges ofthe same, and the consequent length of the piece which they will cut, is increased to the desired extent. It will be understood that-in the latter case the cylinder B is raised in its bearings, and the height of the friction-rings F and blocks H increased t0 correspond with the increased height of the cutting-knives, as shown in Fig. 4. By this mode of constructing the irregularly-shaped cutters, also, their cost is reduced, and, in the event of an accident to any one or more of the knives, repairs can be readily and easily effected.

It will be understood, however, that, although I prefer the mode of making the angleplates in sections, as described, on account of the case with which changes in the size of the pattern can be effected, an angular plate may be cast in one piece, of the proper shape, if desired, or instead of being secured directly to the surface of the cylinder the angle-plates may be secured to a detachable jacket, in order to facilitate the attachment and removal of different patterns of cutting-knives.

In cases where it is desired to print upon the cut pieces a certain number or mark, I place at one side of the machine two printingrollers, J J, (see Fig. 1,) one of which revolves almost in contact with the edges of the cutting-knives a of the cylinder B, the other revolving in a trough, K, containing some suitable marking compimd, which is transferred to the rollers J J. The proper marks or numbers are so arranged on the surface of the cylinder B that they can Vyieldwhen they come in contact with the roller J or with the cloth, but will bear against the same with a pressure sufcient to impart the required impression.

Although .l have described and illustrated my invention as applied to the cutting out of articles of clothing, it will be evident that it can be applied with advantage to the cutting out of other articles of either cloth, paper,

leather, or other material.

I claim as my invention- 1. The angle-plates m, shaped as described, and bent to conform to the surface of the cylinder B, in combination with the cuttingknives a, made in sections, and securedto the angle-plates, as described.

2. The combination of the cutting-knives a with strips or blocks H of rubber, arranged, in respect to said knives, as and for the purpose set forth.

3. The combination of the cylinders B and D with the cloth-rollers E E, stretching-bars d d, feed-rolls e e, and plate f.

4. The combination of the cylinders B and D with the plate f, roller h, apron t', and cylinderj.

5. rlhe combination of the lower cylinder D with the upper knife-carrying cylinder B, having adjustable bearings, and provided with projecting friction-rings F, so secured to the same as to be readily detachable, as and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereofI have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN L. FRY. Witnesses:

EDWARD H. EcKFELp'r, HARRY SMITH. 

